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Road To Suchness

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Guanajuato, Mexico

Guanajuato…..Most Noble and Loyal City

January 6, 2017

Plaque of Catholic nun, on street wall of Guanajuato

It seems, and could very well be, that there is a church on every corner in Guanajuato.  Guanajuato,  that most noble and loyal city, the city of churches.  Not the Calvonist churches of simplicity that would simultaneously be built in New England and below. These are churches of grand riches and art, rivaling the churches of the same period built in Europe.  Each time we entered yet another church we did so with awe and quiet delight.

Gold was found in Guanajuato in 1540 and thereafter followed a rush of thousands of adventurers and laborers much the same as the gold rushes in California.  During the 18th Century, more silver was extracted in Guanajuato than in any other part of the world.  It was the richest city in Mexico during the colonial period, given the name “Most Noble and Loyal City of Santa Fe de Minas de Guanajuato”.  A portion of the enormous wealth was returned in the form of the architecture, both religious and civic.

So though I had already seen, quite leisurely, four churches in Guanajuato, I wanted to be a part of  a Sunday service. 

Front facade of the church La Compania de Jesus, Guanajuato

Ornate altar, high ceillings, church in Guanajuato

High outer walls of church in Guanajuato

La Basilica, Guanajuato

 We began our first Sunday , s all mornings in Guanajuato, with hot drinks and local bread, sitting in the garden. There seemed to be a race about to take place. There were runners coming from all directions and congregating on the path to the Basilica http://guanajuatomexicocity.com/Guanajuato-guide/Basilica-Guanajuato.html We waited for the gun to go off and then walked the short climb up the hill.. The church was full and there was a lively interaction between the priest and the congregation. I stepped out early and saw Michael taking photos outside near the long stand of food. There were already some church goers who ducked out early to eat tamales.

Basilica of our Lady of Guanajuato

Templo de la Compania, Guanajuato

A climb up the another hill and I was at the Templo de la Compania.    ( http://guanajuatomexicocity.com/Guanajuato-guide/templo-compania-church-Guanajuato.html.  There was rice outside the doors, a tell tale sign of a wedding the night before.   I arrived in time to hear the choir sing.  Sitting in the back, I wondered at my fortune.  I was taken away by the music.  They were, quite frankly, heavenly.

So why my fascination with the many churches here?  This, especially given the fact that I have never been a practicing Catholic.   I realized that being inside these places of worship, I felt a silent,  definite connection with the city of Guanajuato.  There was a connection to it’s history and especially with it’s people.  Three times I visited the Templo de la Compania.  Twice I was alone, coming in from the agitation in the streets and from my busy wanderings.  It was a way to quiet myself.  And to shared with others that were there,  each in our way,  the individual presence of these moments.  These were moments I am glad to have had and that I will always remember.

The Basilica, as seen from the roof of our hotel:

A little office space of the church I saw through a closed glass door and found endearing:

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